The Pinay Solo Backpacker

Caramoan

Armed w/ a backpack, slippers, my cam & a map I left Alabang on May 23rd at 11 P.M, boarded the bus headed to Goa/San Jose/ Sabang. It wasn’t really a convenient ride as I took a crowded ordinary bus because I missed the last trip of the aircon bus that left around 9:30 pm. The trip took almost 10 hours!!!! So just imagine how bored I am! Good thing the Manong who’s sitting beside me was raised in Sabang. He gave me some details about the place w/c really helped a lot.  You’ll meet all kinds of people  who can help you reach your destination when you travel, so just ask nicely but never give out too much information for your own security. 9:45am May 24th, I arrived at Sabang, the bus stopped at Penafrancia Beach Resort so I had to walk a few meters to Sabang beach port. I was really starving so I looked for a carinderia & ordered “kusido’. Manong told me, Sabang beach is the home of blue marlin so most eatery offers them on their menu. From Sabang port, I had to wait for the next trip at 11 A.M to Guinlajo port via M. V Harry.  There I spoke w/some locals headed to Caramoan and also met JV w/ her foreigner girlfriend who asked  me to go with them.

M.V Harry, the only motorized bangka that has regular trips to Caramoan

The fare is Php 120 and porters will be offering to carry you to the bangka because the water at the shore is at hip level and you can pay them at least Php 10 but you would love to pay more as they’re really not like the rest of the porters in other places who are abusive, they would gladly take  even the minimum fee you give them and they would still smile and thank you. The trip to Guinlajo port takes roughly 2 hours so better bring your ipod or mp4 with you!

inside Harry

The view  is simply amazing… if your on the left side of the bangka you’ll get a full view of the evergreen mountains… while on the right side you’ll get to see Aguirangan Island. Upon arrival at Guinlajo port, small bangkas are waiting to transfer passengers to the port w/o getting wet. You can pay a Minimum of Php10..again you’d be more than happy to pay the bangkero more because just like the porters, they wouldn’t ask for more than the minimum. At the port, you can take  a jeep (Php 20), tricycle (P20 each but fully loaded) or  you can hire it for Php 100, or if you only have a few baggage, you can backride on  a motorcycle for Php 40 (without helmet!!) to take you to Sentro (Central Town) .

Guinlajo port

For those who want to check in to the largest Inn in Caramoan, Rex Tourist Inn has a service waiting at the port but take note it’s not for free you’ll pay Php 100 each. Then at the Central Town there’s a couple of Inns that you can choose from. You can save if you are in groups because the room is cheaper. It cost me Php 700 per day for a small room w/ own bath, a/c & tv. 1 BR for 2 people normally cost Php 1000-Php 1500 while for 4 people ranges from Php 2000-Php 2500.

the rough road to Caramoan town

Caramoan is just like any other remote barangays  with limited amenities.

rice fields along the road of Caramoan town is highly evident

I arrived at Sentro around 1:30 PM. I decided to stay at Rex Tourist Inn. The staff  was so helpful, that she even made an arrangement with a group of  young tourists headed by Kel to let me join their island hopping to save me the cost of renting the entire bangka. I intended to stay for 1 day only because I wanted to go back to Naga the next day & drop by at CWC & visit the Deer farm in Ocampo. But the staff suggested I take the tour with the rest because M.V Harry’s last trip is at 11AM so even if I take the tour the next day, my time would still be limited. So I joined the group headed by Kel. We took off to Bikal port by 3pm.

Bikal port

For those who wants to get closer to the beach, you can stay at La Playa. It’s the only inn located near the beach. You have to take another ride by tricycle or motorcycle or jeep (rarely available) to Bikal port w/c is roughly 5 kms. The fare is the same: Php 20 each for fully loaded tricycle, Php 100 if you hire th entire tricycle or Php 40 for motorcycle. Rex Tourist Inn offers motorcycle rental for Php 500 a day or Php 300 half day (excluding gas). From Sentro town one has to go to Bikal port to rent the bangka for Island hopping w/c would cost you Php 1500 and for a larger bangka w/c can accomodate around 20 people it’s Php 2000.

To be fair to the other bangkeros, the community has decided to have “pila” for the bangka. The route to Brgy. Tagbo ( where you can hike the mountain where the huge shrine of the Our lady of the Holy Rosary dwells that takes roughly 502 steps ) is different. It’s said to be Php 800 by bangka (special trip). But you can also hire “single motorcycle” for Php 300 to take you there.  It is accessible by land, but the road is really rough. So here we go.. Approaching Caramoan group of islands! The famous Gotta beach is off-limits though until until end of July 2009 due to Survivor Bulgaria’s filming.

Gota Beach

We we’re taken first to an islet fronting Hunongan Island..Hunongan cottages are still under construction..hasn’t opened yet but most likely when it does the rates are like that of Gotta’s. Caramoan is more like Palawan… A perfect getaway…

Hunongan Island

Then next stop is Lahus Island..

Lahus Island

Then Matukad Island.. the best place to swim because of it’s long stretch of white sand and pristine beach…

Matukad beach

and beautiful rock formations.

rock formations @ Matukad beach

Matukad

We have limited time so we pampered ourselves here instead of going to La Playa.

Kel & company

As the sun sets… we went back to Bikal port .

high tide @ Bikal port

I was so tired that I went straight to sleep after taking a brief shower. Monday at 6am..Kel and his friends left for Manila. Meanwhile, I was left confused … head to Naga to explore other places or stay to explore other islands !? … I stayed!!! Hired a tricycle for Php 100 to Bikal port.  Then rented the same bangka for Php 1500..Manong bangkero was kind enough to include the grotto tour w/c is supposedly a different rate. I asked him to go back to the islet fronting Hunongan then straight to the other islands..

I wanted badly to explore the island below but the armed guard told us, it’s off-limits due to Survivor’s filming..

this island is off-limits due to Survivor Bulgaria

so we headed to a far away island called Lahuy. It’s a private property also called Hacienda Basud.

Lahuy island

It’s  already noon  so we ate lunch at the bangka. We stayed at Lahuy Island for 2 1/2 hours waiting for the high tide.

stuck! low tide

I regret not to have agreed with manong bangkero’s offer to take me again to Matukad and Lahus earlier that morning. I didn’t know that if its low tide where gonna get stuck in Lahus Island. So since , I have no way out, after some conversations with Manong and his assistant I started exploring the rest of the island under the heat of the sun.

Lahuy Island

At around 2:30pm,we left Hacienda Basud and went straight to Brgy. Tagbo. The rain started to pour exactly upon arriving at the port!  So I hiked the huge shrine with 502 steps while raining …

502 steps!!!!

…but when you get to the top you’ll realize it’s all worth it..

a local praying the rosary at the huge shrine of Mama Mary

The place is truly breathtaking… it’s overlooking the islands I explored..

mesmerized

5pm I went back to the inn satisfied! I left around 8am the next day- May 26. Took a motorcycle from Sentro to Guinlajo port…just in time for M. V Harry. Last take off is at 11AM from Guinlajo port to Sabang.

backriding w/o helmet! yahu!!!

In Sabang,  there’s a couple of  jeeps & vans bound to Naga. Arrived at Naga terminal around 11pm. So after eating at Biggs, I  took a bus at Naga terminal and arrived safely at midnight.

Biggs @ SM Naga

Caramoan is Bicol’s hidden treasure.  If  Bicol used to be famous only for  Mt. Mayon and the Donsol’s whaleshark, Caramoan is definitely  another must-see. So if you’re based in Luzon and you’re looking for a cheaper  alternative to the touristy price of Boracay or Palawan , you can head to Caramoan.  Better take advantage of it while it’s still cheap because it  might turn out to be  overcrowded like Boracay…I hope not.

*This article was based on my Caramoan solo trip in may 2009. Now I feel like Caramoan has gained it’s much deserved popularity.  Caramoan owes it’s fame now to Survivor France, sadly because of it’s filming, tourists are deprived of visiting some islands.  Caramoan is said to have been rented by Survivor for 25 yrs since 2008. 

the fine white sand of Matukad beach

How to get to Caramoan:

You can either take a plane (estimated travel time 45 minutes)  or a bus to Naga (estimated travel time 9-10hrs). Bus terminals are located at : Ali-Mall Cubao, Pasay & Alabang (fronting Metropolis). to  Naga-Sabang-Caramoan

1. From Naga, ride a jeep or minivan at Naga Central Terminal to Sabang or Talisay Port.
2. Take a motorboat from Sabang or Talisay Port to Caramoan Port (Guinlajo Port).
3. Ride a jeep orrent a bike (motorbike)  from the Port to get to Caramoan town (Sentro).
4. At Caramoan sentro, you can find several guesthouse/inn. Then you can wait for a jeep to Bikal port which passes by rarely, rent a tricycle for Php 50 (special trip) or ordinary trip for Php 12 (you have to wait for the tricyle to be full though) or ride a motorcycle (Php 50) or your inn can arrange a special service for you (normally Php 100 each).
5. At Bikal port , you can rent a bangka for island hopping. Php 1500 for small bangka (1-10 persons) or Php 2500 (11-20 persons). *This post is based on my Caramoan visit summer last year. As of my last check, boat rate has increased to Php2,000-Php3,500 depending on boat size.
6. The grotto  is a different route. Bangka cost’s Php 800 or you can hire a motorcycle for Php 300 to take you there. You can also get around the town by motorcycle, tourist inns would usually offer one (gas not included)  for Php 250 half day or Php 500 full day .

Pinay solo backpacker stayed at: Rex Tourist Inn – @ Real St, Brgy. Tawog in Centro Caramoan, rates for fan room is Php 300 while regular room to executive room rates are ranging from Php 700 to Php 2500. other Caramoan accommodations : click here. *As of my last check with friends who visited the island recently, there’s a  lot of newly constructed accommodations.

Tip: there’s no bank in Caramoan so pls bring enough cash. Pinay solobackpacker wants to thank : Kel Matacatangay and friends for the company. 

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