The Pinay Solo Backpacker

For those who aren’t familiar with Khao San Road (KSR), allow me to share a brief intro  about this famous road in Thailand.  Khaosan” translates as “milled rice”, a reminder that in former times the street was a major Bangkok rice market. In the last 20 years, however, Khaosan Road has developed into a world famous “backpacker ghetto” even long before the movie of Leonardo diCaprio ” The Beach” ( where he stayed at one of the guesthouse in this busy street) was filmed here. Hailed as one of the most famous road in the world, where the east and west meets, one can find people of all races here.

So how did the tranquil road turn out to be a Mecca for travelers? On the brink of Thailand’s economic boom in 1982, the Thai Government issued its policy to commemorate Bangkok’s bicentennial anniversary and celebrate the Buddhist calendar’s lucky year “2525″, by launching festive ceremonies in Bangkok to bring in tourist dollars. Tourists poured in from around the world, causing Bangkok’s hotels to overflow with bookings. The most spectacular festivities were performed in the Grand Palace. Some backpackers, unable to get an overpriced room, successfully convinced local residents on Khao San Road to rent out vacant rooms in their houses, reasoning that, in return, the guest house owners could earn some extra income and it was convenient for them to travel to their destinations. The guest house business generated more profits than any amateur entrepreneur ever expected. Before long, more guesthouses, restaurants and souvenir shops sprouted along the road in full bloom. (source:khaosanroad)

It was after my birthday last year in December when I first set foot in KSR . The sunrise greeted me at Khao San Road at around 9am.  I managed to arrive in KSR safely despite taking the adventurous way (“pure commute” not the Airport Express Bus thingy and it’s my 1st time in BKK!)  from Bangkok’s airport to Khao San Road (read my previous posts regarding commuting to KSR from the airport).  I would still recommend taking the Airport Express bus though to save you the hassle.  I’m a self-confessed masochist, I so love adventure that’s why I took that route! 

There’s not much to see in KSR during the early part of the day, most establishments are still closed but the street suddenly transforms into it’s trademark –> crowded and bustling, as the day gets late.  It’s like a home for hedonistic travelers: bars & cafes, street hawkers, food stalls, tattoo parlors, hostels, souvenir shops, travel agencies, and yeah, a couple of 7eleven stores.

a tatoo parlor

When I first planned for my Thailand trip last year, I consulted my good ol’ frnd Claudine who’s been around Asia for business trips. She then asked her Thai friend and they advised me to stay away from Khao San Road and find a hostel in Siam area instead which I think is another great option. But like I said, I am a masochist, I love adventure  so I  chose to head to KSR and not only that but most information available online is about KSR.

Khao San at night

I didn’t arrive straight in KSR, the non-ac bus I took from Victory Monument for 12B dropped me off at the main highway so I had to cross the road and look for the street which thank God I found easily. The street is still dead at that time, but there are some taxi and tuktuk drivers waiting for the next tourist they could rip off (lol). I have printed a list of guesthouses in KSR but because I’m dead tired and I don’t have a map of KSR just the bangkok and thailand map w/c doesn’t have a detailed map of KSR. I started searching for a place to stay and saw the famous Swasdee Inn signs (there’s 2 of them), I turned right and followed the sign only to find out the single room left is for 700B. No way!

there's 2 signboard in Swasdee in KSR, look for the smaller one as seen on this pic

So I walked back and passed by a small resto, called  D.O Guesthouse.  The place looks  cheap and ordinary,  just like the bars you see in remote places (which I don’t mind because I’m missing the laid back life).  I inquired about the rate, they only have fan rooms and shared bath for 170B, the caretaker showed me the room, as expected, it’s a humble room, imagine the room where Leo stayed in KSR on the movie, it looks like that only smaller but I took it anyway. I’m not really choosy when  looking for a guesthouse, so long as I have a bed, a shower, and a fan at least, I’m cool w/ that.  I’m always out anyway and would only be back in my guesthouse at night for some sleep.

my humble guesthouse

So would I recommend you to  stay at my cheap guesthouse? NO.  The service is good but for security reasons I wouldn’t  recommend it  especially if you’re a girl and you’re traveling solo.  There’s no gate and anyone can just get inside thru the establishments that’s connected to it.  The doorknobs looks pretty old and unsecured ( like anyone can just slip a  hard card on it and get in) .  There’s only 2 bathrooms for all the rooms.  And it gets so freakin’ hot during the summer but then again if you’re traveling in a shoestring budget the rate could be  really  tempting!   So what whenever I sleep at night I just block the door  with the table and my bed. Talk about paranoia huh!?  Well,  better be safe than sorry!

my humble and messy room! =))

I tried to get a room at  Shambara Boutique Hostel and Restaurant which is located at the end of KSR  which I got from Nina.  But check in time is at 1am.  It looks like a relaxing place to stay at with rooms ranging from 300B for single room w/ fan to 450B fr single room w/ AC and 500B-700B for Double rooms. I also went to Sawasdee Inn but they’re pretty expensive for a backpacker’s budget, with rates starting at 750B for a single room w/ ac.

What I don’t like about staying in  KSR is that it’s so crowded and the noise outside gets into you room.  But why stay in KSR anyway? 1st, it’s close to the Grand Palace where almost all the tourist spots in Bangkok is located. 2nd, the travel agencies everywhere makes it easier for you to tour Thailand and cross overland in a cheaper and less hassle way.  And lastly, you also get to meet a lot of backpackers and travelers and you get to share the expenses with them if your headed on the same route and more importantly you’ll learn a lot from their experience.

I pray namaste! McDo in Khao San Rd =))

Getting to KSR frm Bangkok Airport?  Yo have 4 options. Read here.

Commuting from Bangkok Airport to KSR. Read Here.

Commuting in Bangkok from KSR. Coming soon!

Khao San Road Tips:

KSR actually offers guesthouses and hotels for all types of budget. But it is famous for the budget travelers and young backpackers.

Never ever ride a taxi in KSR   if  you don’t like to be ripped off. (those are the cabs parked on KSR itself). You can walk to the end of the street (landmark is Burger King) , walk a few meters  to the main road and hail a cab there instead.

Don’t expect super cheap shopping in KSR , it’s still cheaper in Divisoria, Quiapo and Cubao in the Philippines, the goods though are generally nice and trendy.

Or if you wanna explore the cheapest way, then commute! ride a bus like I did.  watch out or my post soon! or simply walk!

Explore, enjoy but be safe!

Where to stay in KSR:

D.O  Guesthouse (read my post above for instructions and pictures).

Shambara Boutique Hostel and Restaurant
138 Khao San Road
Bangkok
+66-2-282-7968
+66-1-839-5155
+66-1-828-2970

Shambara website

Sawasdee Hotels

Address :
Sawasdee Group
Corporate Office Sawasdee & Woraburi Group
128/9 Sukhumvit Soi 4, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110
Phone: +66-2256-0890
Fax: +66-2256-0737

Email: reservation@hotelsawasdee.com

Sawasdee website

My KSR adventure wouldn’t be possible without the following people:

Agnes Orito, Claudine Claridad, Tita Ching, cuz Tad, Flipnomad and my siblings.

at the Marble temple's garden

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